A Ryokan Is Not a Hotel: How to Enjoy a Traditional Japanese Inn

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A ryokan is not a hotel. It is a way of spending time — Japanese style.

Many travelers to Japan think of a ryokan as a “Japanese-style hotel.” But a ryokan and a hotel are different. A hotel is a place to sleep. At a ryokan, the stay itself is the reason for the journey.

In this article, we explain how a ryokan differs from a hotel, and share a few customs that will help you enjoy your stay.

A family welcomes you

An old photograph of Tofuya Ryokan in its early days
Tofuya in its early days

At a hotel, a doorman greets you. You enjoy room service and spend your time in your room.

A ryokan is different. You are welcomed into a family’s home.

Tofuya Ryokan is a family-run ryokan that dates back to the Edo period. Today, the seventh generation of our family takes care of the inn. We welcome you not only as a guest, but as someone special who has come to our home.

Tofuya Ryokan lit up in the evening
Tofuya Ryokan today

Dinner and breakfast are at the heart of your stay

A seasonal kaiseki dinner with Yonezawa beef at Tofuya Ryokan
A seasonal dinner made with local ingredients

Dinner at a ryokan is not room service. It is a meal made for you, using ingredients of the season.

Dinner and breakfast are an important part of a ryokan stay. That is why meal times are set in advance. You can choose a starting time for dinner between 6:00 and 7:00 p.m., and for breakfast between 7:30 and 8:30 a.m. Eating at a set time allows us to serve each dish at its very best.

Of course, plans without meals are also available.

Shoes off, yukata on

Two guests in yukata at the entrance of Tofuya Ryokan
Guests in yukata at our entrance

At a ryokan, you take off your shoes. A yukata is prepared in your room. A yukata is a traditional Japanese robe for relaxing. You can wear it as you walk around the inn, bathe in the hot springs, and enjoy your meals. You can even step outside in your yukata and stroll through the hot spring town.

The floor of a Japanese-style room is covered with tatami. Tatami are traditional Japanese mats woven from rush grass.

A Japanese-style tatami room at Tofuya Ryokan
A Japanese-style room with tatami

In a Japanese-style room, a futon is laid out at night. The room that was your living room during the day becomes your bedroom at night. We lay out your futon while you are having dinner.

The hot spring is not an amenity — it is the reason to come

Natural hot spring water flowing into the bath at Tofuya Ryokan
100% natural hot spring water, flowing freely

At a hotel, the bath is one of the amenities. At a ryokan, the hot spring is the purpose of the trip.

The hot spring at Tofuya Ryokan is a blend of two natural sources. We mix a source of about 80°C with a source of about 35°C to reach just the right temperature.

From the moment we fill the baths, we use only hot spring water. After that, we keep pouring in only spring water and let the overflow run away. This is 100% natural, free-flowing hot spring water. We clean the baths during the day, so you can enjoy the hot springs late at night and early in the morning.

A day at a ryokan

At a ryokan, time flows slowly. Here is one way to spend your day:

Guests in yukata enjoying snacks in Onogawa Onsen town
Strolling through Onogawa Onsen in yukata
  • 3:00 p.m. Arrive at the ryokan and relax with a cup of tea
  • 4:00 p.m. Stroll through the hot spring town and visit Kinoene Daikokuten, home of Daikoku, the god of good fortune
  • 5:00 p.m. Soak in the hot spring or enjoy the sauna
  • 6:00 p.m. Savor a seasonal dinner
  • Late at night Enjoy another quiet soak
  • Dawn Bathe as the sun rises
  • 8:00 a.m. Have breakfast
  • 10:00 a.m. Check out

There is no need to rush from one sight to the next. Enjoy the time you spend at the ryokan itself. If you would like to truly unwind, we recommend staying two nights or more.

How to use the public bath

The large public hot spring bath at Tofuya Ryokan
The large public bath

The large public bath at a ryokan is a shared bath, separated for men and women. In Japan, people bathe without swimsuits.

If it is your first time, these steps will help you feel at ease:

  1. Undress in the changing room and place your clothes in a basket.
  2. Wash your body and hair at the washing area.
  3. Pour hot water over yourself before entering the bath.
  4. Do not put your towel in the bath water.
  5. Slowly sink into the hot spring and relax.

If you are not comfortable bathing in front of others, we also have a private bath and a private sauna. You can enjoy them with just your family or partner. The private bath and private sauna require a reservation and an additional fee.

The private hot spring bath at Tofuya Ryokan
Our private bath, accessible for wheelchair users

A perfect first ryokan

A barrier-free room with beds at Tofuya Ryokan
A room with beds, designed for easy movement

You may want to stay at a ryokan, but feel unsure about sitting on the floor or sleeping on a futon.

At Tofuya Ryokan, you can choose a room with beds. Meals are served at tables with chairs. There are few steps inside the inn, and there are handrails and ramps. Wheelchairs are also available to borrow.

A semi-private dining area with tables and chairs at Tofuya Ryokan
Dining at tables, in semi-private spaces

You can enjoy the true character of a ryokan without straining your body. For first-time ryokan guests and older travelers, Tofuya Ryokan is the perfect gateway to a ryokan where you can enjoy real hot springs.

Enjoy the customs of the ryokan

Set meal times, the time when your futon is laid out, taking off your shoes, and how to use the public bath — these are not inconvenient rules. They are customs that let you experience Japanese life.

A night at a ryokan is a night spent living inside Japanese culture. We look forward to welcoming you at Tofuya Ryokan.

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